Water Stop Valves

[kevinb]

In my house in GA I occasionally open and shut all the water stop valves to stop then seizing. Two I have closed are now reducing the flow drastically. Has anyone had any experience of this or replacing them ?

[petercs]

We have two stop valves in the community “box” where they are located. The first one belongs to the water company, then a meter and finally another stop valve. Having had problems where water was reduced to a trickle and then stopped, was advised by water company they were only responsible for the stop tap before the meter.
Bottom line was taking my tap off showed a disintegrated washer. Tap changed and problem solved. Other neighbours have had similar problems and the last one obtained parts from the iron mongers in Altet

Peter

[John H]

Hi Kevin, I always turn all of mine off, there are several and I’ve never had this problem.
When I open them I always follow the advice a plumber gave me several years ago, open them fully and then screw them back down a turn or two.....apparently it stops them getting blocked with particles in the water.....no idea if there’s any science behind it!!
If yours are like  mine it will be a pain as they are all behind tiles
Hope you get it sorted

Regards all

John


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[kevinb]

Thanks John, Had the sane advice from my late father, I suspect these little valves are cheap and nasty. As you say main part of valve is behind tiles.

[Blue and white stripes]

My stop valves seized open so I couldn't turn off the water. I phoned Hidragua and an engineer came out within an hour and changed the pair of them.

[DaveG]

I would agree with Peter that a disintegrated washer it the most likely culprit except that it's coincidental that it has happened on two taps at the same time; but stripping the tap down is the first port of call; not easy with these cheap and nasty taps as it's easy to shear them off. Softly softly is the order of the day if the tiles allow access.

John - the science behind opening a stop tap fully and then closing between a quarter and half a turn is so that the metal top of the jumper (the bit that holds the washer) inside of the valve doesn't butt up to the metal body of the tap. Over time the metals seize together preventing closing - opening the tap a mm or two ensures there is no metal to metal contact inside.

In my experience particles only block the tap if it is left almost closed as some people do to control what they perceive as excessive pressure - but being technical closing the tap only controls the flow; the pressure remains the same.

Dave

[John H]

That makes sense, thanks for that Dave

Regards all

John


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[kevinb]

Found the problem, the aerator on the end of the tap spout had a load of bits of limescale blocking it, reckon opening and shutting the hot and cold stop valves dislodged the gunge, normal flow restored.